Do you want to know the essence of authentic Madrid? Your destination is the Mercado de Vallehermoso. It’s that place where there’s an authentic coexistence between food stalls and tasting stands. In fact, almost all food stalls make their dishes with ingredients bought in the same market. It’s not touristy, nor is it invaded by those who just posture, but its ambience on the weekends turns it into one of the destinations for cañas and tapas in Chamberí. One of the best gastronomic markets in Madrid.
It had been a long time since I got a surprise so big from going to a restaurant. Their owners were among the few crazy people who launched the Vallehermoso Market when there were many closed stalls and problems everywhere. Now, they occupy four positions and is one of the strongest and most established quality food offers.
I had been told they had delicious portions to peck at and good pints of beer, but their meat dishes are blasts from the past. In fact, it’s one of the few market stalls in Vallehermoso (along with Kint and some more) that has a professional kitchen. On my last visit I tried their spectacular “pork ribs with BBQ sauce”, which accompanied by a “provoleta” and a “parrillada de verduras”, could have served 4 people perfectly. And how delicious!
Take a place at their large wooden bar facing the kitchen and discover how (gastronomic) magic is made. Roberto Martínez Foronda, struggling in Nikkei 225, Nakeima and Kena, has launched with this personal project by the hand of the Tiradito group. Its cuisine is Peruvian fused with that of Southeast Asia and Latin countries, at the market stall of Vallehermoso with the most spectacular design. What to ask for? Its “Lima cause with stew of pork trotters and Iberian dewlap”, yum!
Nothing better than a New Yorker to make one of the richest pastrami sandwiches in the city. Together with Prost they create the most carnivorous area of the Mercado de Vallehermoso. They have three types of sandwiches, but pastrami is by far the most requested. Wet it with one of its 10 beers brought from all over the world and you will feel what a foodie experience is.
Gigi and Marco are two Italians whose obsession is to make the best possible market cuisine with the minimum possible allergens. Apart from the fact that the whole menu is gluten-free, they also minimize the use of dairy products, and with first-class products purchased in the Mercado de Vallehermoso itself. That’s why it’s not uncommon for it to always be full, with the “prawn raw” as the top dish. Here the whole group of friends can eat elaborate and tasty cuisine, but you have to be quick to get a table.
Absolute professionals of the vermuth in the neighborhood of Chamberí. This small market stall in Vallehermoso teaches the appetizer lovers with its selection of vermouths and toasts at a reasonable price. They are the nicest and do wonders with their tiny kitchen: my favorite toasts are the cod brandade and the serrano ham. Many start the aperitif here and arrive at home at 5 …
Right in front of Kint, this is the favorite place for truffle lovers. You may have eaten many dishes at restaurants that carry truffles, but never like the one they sell here. You can buy fresh black truffles from Teruel, truffled oil or truffled pesto sauce. This is for when you cook at home, but there you should ask for the “truffled potato omelette” with EGG0 farm eggs, another one of the Vallehermoso Market stalls.
The color of this stall is intimately related to the good vibes of Edson and his people. And that is transmitted to their home cooking, made by young guys wanting to make known a different Mexican cuisine. By “different” I mean marrow studs, grasshoppers (crickets) or caterpillars. Take a cold beer and attack some of their tacos with caution, because they also maintain the spicy level of Mexico.
For all those who have been on vacation in the Canary Islands, this market stall in Vallehermoso is a jewel. I’m not saying that I’m going to make the Gofio recipes in my house, but I’ll finally get authentic mojo picón! They have been open for just over a month, but it is already one of the top openings in the market. They offer tasting of Canarian dishes that they cook with their own products, especially cheeses.
Yes, there is also a sushi stand in the Mercado de Vallehermoso. It is a traditional Japanese market, which means that their menu varies depending on the availability of raw material. Yes, the fish and others is very fresh, since they buy it from the fishmongers and the sushi they prepare on the spot. You can continue with your tapas route here with their otsumami (which are Japanese tapas) and above all their sushi is suitable for celiacs/coeliacs.
I know what you are thinking: “in a single visit I will not be able to visit so many places”. And you’re right, but there’s the grace of Mercado de Vallehermoso. No matter how many times you go, there is always a dish or a place to discover. Going is always a good idea, but if you go with children or it’s raining, the plan is a real hit. I have not been on a Friday or Saturday night, but I have been told that it’s one of the liveliest environments in the entire neighborhood.
Translated by Story Of Madrid, the podcast about Madrid in English.h.
Mercado de Vallehermoso
Phone: +34 9220.127.116.11
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday 9:00 to 23:30 h, Sunday 11:00 to 16:30 h. The schedules of each market stall may vary.
Address: Vallehermoso, 36, Madrid.
Mercado de Vallehermoso on our map